Now, coinciding with high jewelry presentations in Europe last month, De Beers has unveiled the rest of its 2022 high jewelry collection, “The Alchemist of Light”.
With five sets comprising 45 unique pieces, consider this second chapter the main course of The Alchemist.
The alchemist of light interprets the reflection of light on different surfaces and at different times of the day.
‘Dusk Reflection’, for example, features De Beers’ abstract lotus motif, with round diamonds on a square setting. The four jewels of the set feature the repeated motif, symbolizing the daily rhythms of the lotus flower that blooms and closes at night.
Round brilliant-cut white diamonds are set in rose and white gold with a “radial satin” finish, similar to a brushed pattern.
A flexible choker features a 1.13 carat deep pink radiant cut fancy diamond from De Beers’ Natural Works of Art collection. The choker converts into a pair of cuff bracelets and the pink diamond pendant is detachable to wear on a longer necklace.
A long necklace features a removable pendant with a 1.02 carat round brilliant cut diamond in its center.
Long earrings can be converted into studs or worn asymmetrically with a stud and an earring.
The second high jewelry set, “Ascending Shadow”, conveys a whole new energy, thanks to the colored anodized titanium and coated aluminum in shades of pink, blue and green.
The graduated metalwork and wrapped diamonds are inspired by the spiral staircase of De Beers Jewelers’ new flagship store in London. The graduation allows a contrast of shadow and light.
Another contrast is made with the mixture of faceted diamonds with rough diamonds.
A necklace combining blue aluminum and blue titanium set with diamonds is composed of 142 individually articulated parts because aluminum and titanium cannot be fused.
The necklace features a row of marquise-shaped diamonds alternating with rough green diamonds for an unexpected accent. At its center is a fancy light gray pear-shaped diamond of 3.41 carats.
Ten jewelers and five setters worked alone to create the necklace.
Earrings in pink aluminum with titanium adorned with round brilliant cut white diamonds and pink diamonds. Marquise-cut diamonds and brownish-pink rough diamonds surround 1.02-carat and 1.01-carat pear-shaped diamonds.
At the center of the pink aluminum and titanium cocktail ring is a fancy 1.24 carat pear-shaped orange-brown diamond.
Finally, a green titanium and aluminum cocktail ring has a 1.11 carat orange-brown Asscher cut fancy diamond and a 1.11 carat radiant cut yellowish green fancy diamond in the center.
But where this set gets its color from its metals, the color of “Midnight Aura” comes from chrysoprase.
De Beers said “green clouds of stardust” were the inspiration for the set.
Round brilliant and princess cut white diamonds are set in cabochon cut chrysoprase in jewels also adorned with black rhodium.
The set’s fabric collar is embellished with hundreds of bezel-set diamonds that create an articulated mesh-like net. The piece can be worn in a variety of ways thanks in part to a 20.57-carat detachable pear-shaped white diamond from the Natural Works of Art diamond collection.
The chandelier earrings are also convertible and can be detached, leaving only the pear-shaped diamond studs. Climber earrings and two rings complete the assortment.
Leader of the Op Art movement, Victor Vasarely inspired the graphic and geometric patterns of the “Optical Wonder” set.
Black aluminum is used alongside rough and polished yellow diamonds in several styles, with the striped pattern being an ode to Vasarely.
A 3.02 carat fancy intense yellow radiant cut diamond is the focal point of the set’s necklace, which pairs perfectly with long convertible earrings and an open double finger ring.