MILAN – Pomellato’s second high jewelry collection, La Gioia, is indeed designed “to bring pure joy after so many months of constraints,” said creative director Vincenzo Castaldo.
It is also a major development in the brand’s commitment to sustainable development.
As the pandemic did not allow Castaldo to travel the world – still a great source of inspiration for the designer – he traveled through time, revisiting Pomellato’s legendary and iconic pieces in a kind of metamorphosis, and making “an introspective journey into the history of Pomellato. “
Castaldo pointed out that “rather than taking inspiration from the past” he physically reworked the jewelry “with a disruptive new approach, creating new jewelry. The collection was put together in a fun and spontaneous way. It was wonderful to find such a fluid interaction and natural harmony between the pieces of Pomellato’s past and present.
The designer admitted that he had been influenced by the traditional Japanese mending technique and the art of kintsugi which recycles damaged gemstones, turned into unique jewelry, which led to Pomellato’s first capsule collection last January, as reported.
For example, the first Pomellato crosses date back to 1984 and in fine jewelry Bavarole Trittico, Castaldo has incorporated three signature designs into a single neo-baroque necklace. A Byzantine cross in gold and garnet from 1993 is flanked by two crosses in rose gold and jet from 2003 and 2013, the latter delicately engraved. Gold bracelets from 2004 form the chain from which the gold and rock crystal pendants of the Harem 2007 collection hang.
“This is a sustainable approach to jewelry, breathing new life into the jewelry that was part of our archives,” Castaldo said.
The “idea of re-loving” reflects Pomellato’s values and is also very much in line with the environmental efforts of parent group Kering, said CEO Sabina Belli. “There is a continuity in this collection, a desire to bring sustainability to the world of luxury goods that also allows us to reinvent ourselves as both artisans and designers,” said Belli.
The jewelry was made in the workshops of Casa Pomellato in Milan, where 100 artisans work to make each collection by hand, sourcing certified gold.
“The idea for this chapter of the collection arose from a conversation with American artist and designer Sheva Fruitman,” said Castaldo, who carefully chooses his words to fully express his passion for jewelry. “We were discussing sustainability in the luxury industry, and she suggested using vintage jewelry to create new designs for our new collection. We thought it was a very interesting idea, and I used things from our past as fragments of our memory, and then anchored them in the present.
In the brand’s high jewelry segment, Castaldo wanted “to keep the same irony and the same irreverence that Pomellato has always brought to traditional jewelry”.
With the Haiku Turquoise T-chain, Castaldo transformed a Japanese coin shape carved in vibrant turquoise into an asymmetrical closure and added a jet T-clasp. The yellow and pink gold elements of the Moneta Giapponese 1996 collection and the Victoria 2008 collection are complemented by two forms of pieces set with a pavé of diamonds which add warmth to the jewel.
Pomellato’s passion for color is expressed in the Rivière Venezia design, a delicate combination of pastel gemstones from the 2009 Arabesque necklace and the 2006 Pin Up earrings, with smoky quartz, prasiolite, amethysts and rock crystals. In the same spirit, the 2006 Eva cameo earrings with a snake motif are combined with blue topazes, juxtaposing an opaque, organic material and transparent gems.
For what he called the second chapter of the collection, the designer focused on the rich history of the house’s chains and necklaces. A remarkable piece, for example, is a white gold chain composed of links set with a pavé of 2,300 white diamonds and a 48-carat tanzanite pendant in a rare cabochon cut. Castaldo said it took over 700 hours of work to create this unique piece.
A 76.66 carat red rubellite appears to float at the center of the bold Rubellite Chain necklace. The minimalist lines of the design of two overlapping rose gold chains surround the cabochon cut stone surrounded by diamonds.
The lock chain mixes genres with feminine yellow and gold links held together by a diamond-set padlock that offers multiple ways to secure the piece of jewelry. The Assoluta Gourmette features extra-large pink gold links set with a pavé of brown diamonds and five electric blue-violet tanzanite cabochons weighing a total of 70 carats complete the jewel.
“It was a deeply personal journey into the treasures of our past,” concluded Castaldo.