Jewelry collection

Messika’s new high jewelry collection is unique to the gods

Paris—Messika’s new high jewelry collection would be worthy of Cleopatra.

Presented in Paris earlier this month, “Beyond the Light” is inspired by ancient Egypt.

The necklace-filled collection has none as impressive as the one found in the “Akh-Ba-Ka” set, which includes 15 diamonds cut from the same 110-carat rough salvaged from the Lucara mine in Botswana.

“I wanted a diamond with a strong heritage for the house,” said designer Valérie Messika, whose famous diamond father André Messika and brother Ilan acquired the stone in early 2020.

Once the rough stone has been cut into its 15 polished shapes, Valérie decides to acquire them all, or even use them in the same set.

“It’s a real jewelry challenge,” she explained. “All the stones were not the same size; some were very original with surprising and more complex shapes. But sometimes the most beautiful creations are born from the unexpected.

In ancient Egypt, “Akh-Ba-Ka” meant the union of life energy and transformation in a person’s flight to the afterlife.

Sourcing the diamonds for the Akh-Ba-Ka necklace turned out to be a family affair. Valérie Messika’s father, André, and his brother Ilan acquired the 110-carat rough stone in early 2020. “When we won the tender, we were all very happy and surprised. It was the first time we won a rough diamond of such size and quality. Ilan oversaw the complex mapping and slicing process in what is a career feat. (Image courtesy of Stephen Lewis)

For the Messika workshop, incorporating so many important diamonds into a single necklace was a transformation in itself.

Nicolas Lodolo, head of the workshop, said the biggest challenge “was to match all the different pieces of the 110-carat rough diamond by enhancing their brilliance without deforming them”.

While undeniably substantial, the necklace should also have a sense of lightness and movement. “The idea was to make the room almost come alive,” Lodolo said.

The largest diamond in the rough at 110 carats, an immaculately polished 33-carat D-color stone that Lodolo calls a “once-in-a-lifetime diamond,” required special attention. Ultimately, the brand opted to create a comfortable pavé diamond setting reflecting its cushion shape, which can also be removed to transform into a brooch.

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In total, a team of four to five jewelers spent over 1,000 hours on the Akh-Ba-Ka set over a six-month period, executing Valerie’s vision of a diamond beetle, a representative symbol of transformation in ancient Egypt.

The necklace features 2,550 diamonds totaling 71.49 carats set in faceted white gold from a single mine.

The Beyond the Light fine jewelry collection includes four other sets.

The “Golden Shield” consists of a choker molded by hand in a solid gold plate, geometric earrings or even lip jewelry that reminds us that Valérie Messika is the coolest girl in the world. Place Vendome.

The mirror finish of the necklace is a perfect backdrop for the pear-shaped diamond dangling from the necklace.

There are two versions of the “Divine Enigma” set, one in yellow gold and the other in white for a monochrome look with rows of pavé diamonds and two emerald cut diamonds as the focal point of the necklace.

Emerald cut diamonds are transformable and also work as a double finger ring. Hoop earrings and rings complete the graphic set.

Injecting a sense of cool and fashion into her family diamond pedigree, designer Valérié Messika launched her company in 2005. She launched the brand’s best-selling collection, “Move”, featuring three sliding diamonds, few time after.

Move gets the high jewelry treatment in the “Move Iconica” set. The signature pattern transforms into necklaces, earrings and arm bracelet.

The Oudjat necklace, part of a set that also includes a ring and a bracelet (Image courtesy of Messika)

The Oudjat necklace, part of a set that also includes a ring and a bracelet (Image courtesy of Messika)

“Udjat” is Messika’s version of “Udjat,” or the Eye of Horus, a symbol synonymous with ancient Egypt.

The necklace of the set is adorned with a 7-carat marquise-cut diamond contrasting with black ceramic reminiscent of eyeliner.

Made in pink gold, the protective symbol is also found on the ring and the bracelet of the set.

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