Jewelry collection

Italian brand Marco Bicego launches its first high jewelry collection – WWD

MILAN — Marco Bicego presents the brand’s first high jewelry collection, called Alta, which means “high” in Italian.

The collection was unveiled at Haute Jewels Geneva 2022, the international fine jewelry exhibition that took place at the Fairmont Grand Hotel in Geneva from March 30 to April 5, concurrently with Watches and Wonders.

“It’s a natural evolution, a more extreme, more important and richer interpretation of the magnificence of natural gemstones,” said Marco Bicego, creative director of the company, which he founded in 2000.

Bicego works only with natural, untreated and unheated gemstones, ranging from diamonds, sapphires and iolites, to topazes, quartz, amethysts, mixed tourmalines, aquamarines and freshwater pearls, paying particular attention to the colour, weight, cut and shape. . Additionally, it only uses 18k gold settings to showcase the gemstones.

Bicego paid tribute to the skills of its craftsmen, who “painstakingly engrave and craft each intricate piece by hand using traditional techniques”, at the company’s workshop and headquarters in Trissino, near the goldsmith center from Vicenza, Italy.

He expressed pride in the collection and pleasure in seeing how it was received in Geneva, supporting his confidence in the launch at this particular time. “I think there is an opportunity that we can seize here, further improving the value of the brand,” he argued. “We consider high jewelry as the art of sublimating precious stones. Nature, flowers and leaves have always been sources of inspiration for me, and we are still very faithful to these concepts, as they allow us to showcase the traditional craft techniques that we use.

Versatility is also essential for Bicego. For example, 18-carat gold, finely engraved using an ancient Florentine technique, and platinum earrings with diamond briolettes can be worn in six combinations. Mounted in platinum, the white briolette diamonds total 107.28 carats.

Briolette earrings by Marco Bicego
image courtesy of Marco Bicego

A multi-strand diamond bracelet is an evolution of the brand’s signature Marrakech collection — one of its best-sellers, Bicego said — featuring multiple twisted coil strands in 18-karat yellow gold, illuminated by brilliant-cut diamonds.

Prices range from 80,000 to 240,000 euros for some Alta pieces.

The group’s consolidated turnover in 2021 amounted to 45 million euros. Exports accounted for 85% of revenue, and the United States is one of the brand’s main markets, accounting for 45% of sales. The company has a branch in San Francisco, as well as in Tokyo.

There are 12 single-brand stores worldwide, in addition to boutique stores at Bloomingdale’s, Mitsukoshi and Printemps, among others.

Jennifer Lopez, Beyoncé, Anne Hathaway, Kate Winslet and Viola Davis are among the celebrities who have been seen wearing Marco Bicego.

Already sold online in the United States, Italy and Germany, digital is also a priority, Bicego said, as the brand will launch a new website in September with plans to expand to other countries.

Marco Bicego

Murano set by Marco Bicego
image courtesy of Marco Bicego

The Bicego factory in Trissino, which employs 100 artisans, was founded in 1958 by Marco’s father. The production is vertical and entirely in-house, even the melting of the gold. Hand engraving with the bulino, an ancient tool used to add a unique finish to gold, is fundamental to the brand’s aesthetic. Coil, the twisted gold thread, is also a signature of Marco Bicego.

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