Jewelry collection

Chanel launches fine jewelry collection inspired by perfume n ° 5 – WWD


PARIS – Chanel recently offered a preview of the teaser – a necklace that sports a 55.55-carat diamond, cut in a shape reminiscent of its No.5 perfume bottle – and now the French luxury house is launching its entire 123 fine jewelry collection. pieces, aimed at the centenary of the famous perfume.

“It was the start of the collection,” said Patrice Leguéreau, director of Chanel’s jewelry design studio, lifting a calligraphic painting the size of a poster of the number five in his office. “I did a lot, with the five, in ink – with this brush,” said Leguéreau, imitating the movement, in three broad strokes. “It helped me make history.”

The fine jewelry houses that border the Place Vendôme have had to redouble their efforts to find new ways to relay their brand stories without physical events since the start of the pandemic, with many shipments of collections abroad, especially in Asia. The No.5 collection features the 55.55 necklace as a centerpiece – which is intended for the brand’s archives, carrying the goal of relaying a brand story and serving as a bridge between the creation of the No.5 perfume in 1921 and the founder of the brand. Gabrielle Chanel house a one and only collection of high jewelry called Bijoux de Diamants.

After rummaging through a pile of paintings depicting the number five, Leguéreau pulled out a model of the 55.55 stone, which sat next to a non-carved, original state model of the diamond.

A necklace from the Chanel n ° 5 collection
Courtesy of Chanel

“At the start, the idea was to have a single stone as the signature of the collection – without knowing what it would look like – and then there was the idea of ​​drawing on an emerald cut, a square-shaped stone, to reflect the shape of the label on the perfume bottle, ”explained Leguéreau.

The house did not necessarily seek the largest stone, but rather the one that would become the Chanel stone with a weight corresponding to the number five.

The flawless D diamond of the necklace is surrounded by 104 round diamonds and 42 baguette diamonds, reshaping the profile of the perfume bottle cap and the shape of the bottle, before spilling into a cascade of pear-cut diamonds, adding an abstract touch to the the room.

The designer took the symbolism of the number even further by offering five themes to the collection, with pieces based on the cap of the perfume bottle, the bottle, the shape of the number five, the flowers of the fragrance and the trail. Wake pieces include the “golden burst” necklace adorned with imperial topazes and “blushing trail” settings of diamonds, rubies, garnets, yellow sapphires, and pink and red spinels.

Chanel launches a collection of Fine Jewelry Drawing

Chanel n ° 5 collection earrings
Courtesy of Chanel

“I wanted to express the scent graphically and visually, the feeling and the emotion,” said Leguéreau, noting that he wore the scent as part of his immersion in the subject.

“To me it’s like an explosion, a burst – it’s solar and heat-carrying,” he said, describing the smell and feeling he sought to capture through his drawings, which ‘he was expressing through yellow stones and flared designs.

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