Jewelry collection

Bulgari presents its fine jewelry collection in Milan – WWD

MILAN – The name of Bulgari’s new high jewelry collection could not be more appropriate: Magnifica.

Indeed, the gemstones on display at a two-day event here are undoubtedly stunning, and Bulgari has called the line the most valuable high jewelry collection it has ever presented.

A superb spinel illustrates this claim. Native to Tajikistan and weighing 131.21 carats, it is the fourth largest spinel in the world in terms of carat weight, but “the most beautiful in terms of quality”, according to Lucia Silvestri, director of jewelry design and of the purchase of precious stones. Mounted in the Imperial Spinel Necklace, the gem is surrounded by a cascade of diamonds and emerald pearls, in a bold color combination of green and hot pink tones. Despite the large size of the spinel, the collar is very light – a kind of “second skin on your neck,” said Silvestri.

Bulgari chose to unveil the collection in Milan for the first time, after past presentations in Venice, Rome and Capri.

“We always celebrate Italian craftsmanship with these events, but in this case we also wanted to pay tribute to Milan, which has been hit so hard by the COVID-19 pandemic and fought so hard to recover,” a said managing director Jean-Christophe Babin on Thursday. “This is the first big live event in the city and we want to help it restart.”

A private concert at La Scala and dinner at Cracco that evening was to be followed by an event lunch at the Bulgari Hotel on Friday.

“Milan is often associated with business, but it is also a symbol of design and we want to help promote it as an artistic and tourist site,” Babin said, noting that two jewels were inspired by the medieval Castello Sforzesco of the city.

Another first was to film the collection in the luxury Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade, which Babin said had never been used for a jewelry display. Given the travel restrictions, the film will help spread the collection around the world. Additionally, the company plans to bring Magnifica to Asia and Japan especially this summer; in China in September; in the United States in October and in the Middle East in December.

While Italy has only recently started to ease restrictions, international travel is still slow, but Babin said he has met several European fine jewelry clients and a few Americans. The Chinese are growing in importance, but wealthy Americans and Europeans remain the main clients of fine jewelry, he proposed, while the upper middle class emerges more in China and Latin America.

A Magnifica Haute Joaillerie look
Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

Today Bulgari is focusing “even more” on the United States, and in particular on the jewelry and watch category in the region. Babin said that thanks to the union of Bulgari and the recently acquired Tiffany & Co., parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has “an extraordinary advantage and opportunity for market share in the United States”. The two brands are complementary, he noted.

“There is a strong appetite for authentic Italian luxury and craftsmanship, for certified and traceable gemstones and 2021 looks more and more like 2019,” observed Babin. He touted the resilience of jewelry, “an everlasting value, whose prices increase exponentially over time,” and Bulgari’s “rare and unique stones”, noting that the spinel itself was worth 16 million euros. “You can’t go wrong buying a precious piece of jewelry.”

The executive said that, given the restrictions and the impact of the pandemic, there is a lot of accumulated liquidity and high net worth individuals are ready to invest in those brands which are “bold” and which guarantee “gems. and extraordinary know-how ”. Further, he believes the pandemic has “enhanced the value of authenticity, transparency and ethics” and that customers are turning to brands that have built a strong emotional connection throughout the emergency. sanitary. Bulgari, as reported, has donated and invested in research to fight the coronavirus.

The Magnifica Collection, which includes a selection of 350 masterpieces counting more than 60 creations priced in the millions, also celebrates a group of “fearless and revolutionary women, who made bold decisions that changed the course. things back then, ”Silvestri said.

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A design from the Magnifica collection by Bulgari.
courtesy image

They range from the orator Hydrangea in ancient Rome and Maharani of Indore, to Chinese writer Eileen Chang and 17th-century painter Artemisia Gentileschi, who have placed a new emphasis on the central role of women in society. The Baroque Spiral necklace “reflects its rebellious spirit,” said Silvestri. The jewel is characterized by a spiral geometry, where cabochon rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds are set one by one at different levels and inclinations in a complex 3D creation.

Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka inspired the design of the Bulgari Diamond Swan necklace. Two stylized swan heads, their little pink diamond-shaped eyes, are surrounded by a triumph of articulated diamond elements, punctuated with touches of mother-of-pearl, recreating the wings of birds. The necklace is matched with a set of earrings.

The Fluid Tanzanite jewel pays homage to the unique style of Zaha Hadid, who revisited Bulgari’s Bzero.1 design years ago, and to “the mighty spirit of a woman who followed her dreams,” said Silvestri . “She was so charismatic and she remains legendary.” In this creation, Bulgari’s tubogas are enriched with pavé-set diamonds in a design inspired by Hadid’s signature use of irregular curves and geometries and a central 77.88-carat tanzanite cabochon.

The Ruby Metamorphosis is a versatile piece of fine jewelry that can be worn in at least nine different ways and took 2,500 hours to complete. It is made up of detachable pieces, including a diamond choker and a chain. At the heart of the jewel is a precious 10.02 carat antique cushion-cut central Mozambique ruby. There is also a soft silk-like pompom mixing baguette diamonds and cabochon rubies. “It is truly a work of art, hiding a complex, articulated and carefully studied structure that allows it to be transformed easily,” said Silvestri.

The Emerald Elipse hides an intricate mechanism of articulated elements, with pavé-set diamonds and buff-tipped emeralds creating an airy tubular design, enriched with seven emerald pearls and a central 62-carat Zambian pear emerald.

A 93.83-carat cabochon-cut Colombian emerald is placed in a snake’s mouth, “as if it were one of its eggs,” said Silvestri. The Hypnotic Emerald necklace took 1,800 hours to complete and the body of the snake is adorned with pavé set diamonds, along with baguettes of diamonds and emerald cabochons, in an intricate handcrafted construction.

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Bulgari’s Hypnotic Emerald Necklace.
Antonio Barrella

Inspired by a Bulgari necklace dating from 1969, the Queen of the Mediterranean is distinguished by an intricate wave-like gold and diamond construction, requiring 2,400 hours to complete. Five cushion-cut oval Paraiba tourmalines in aqua green color are connected by sinuous and curved elements with cabochon emeralds and diamonds. “It’s like diving into the waters off the island of Sardinia,” said Silvestri, who always speaks passionately about his work and that of the artisans who create the jewelry.

The breathtaking Color Legacy necklace combines seven oval aquamarines, totaling nearly 84 carats, paired with 16 oval rubellites, 32 buff amethysts cut in Italy to follow the silhouette of the necklace, as well as 15 diamonds and pear diamonds.

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Bulgari Ruby Metamorphosis Necklace
courtesy image


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