Anissa Kermiche, a Parisian-born jewelry designer based in London, has long been known for her artistic and thoughtful approach to jewelry. So, remember her latest, “Deflowered Collection”, which celebrates the female form.
A longtime influence since Anissa founded her eponymous brand in 2016, expect gold pieces that have been given playful names, from ‘Budding Romance’ to ‘Late Bloomer’, all evoking the relationship between flora and femininity. Anissa tells us more about her lineage ranging from mechanical to artistic in nature.
Sensuality: Our “Deflowered Collection” explores the erotic links between femininity, sexuality and flowers. It was designed to allow women to express their desire and sensuality. Delivering jewelry that shimmers with sex appeal through swirling petals, alluring stamens and tenacious yet delicate genital shapes. We were inspired by the sensual folds of the petals which can symbolize vulvas, also looking at the calla lily, which has strong symmetry with female genitals.
Exploration of mechanics: The collection includes both fashion and fine jewelry. The fashion offering is where we had the opportunity to produce larger flower shapes and create new mechanisms for opening and attaching jewelry. We wanted to confuse the viewer with how the pieces sit, almost as if they are floating in the ear. We then developed this idea into the fine collection, where we created a floating ring in acrylic, so that the ‘Daisy-me-rollin’ and ‘Lady V’ rings seem to sit unattached on top of the finger.
Artistic references: We studied the work of Georgia O’Keeffe, who showed a delicate eroticism in her abstract depictions of flowers. Likewise, photographers Robert Mapplethorpe and Edward Weston both portrayed strong sexual undertones in their photographic studies of flowers, taking their curvaceous forms with the same consideration that others brought to nudes. These were some strong influences for the team when creating the deflowered collection, even when it came to shooting our campaign.
Our campaign: The images we produced for this collection were extremely important to us. It was imagined from the beginning of the design of the parts. We wanted to marry still life photography with photos of models, to create a sensual mood that showed an intimate interaction between the model and the jewelry, embracing her body and reflecting her curves with the pieces. Still life images showed earrings sitting in miniature vases, mimicking a classical arrangement. They were also photographed suspended in the air next to real flowers, then drilled into printed paper with abstract body areas to capture a subtle eroticism.
Humor: The pieces in this collection have all been given playful names to express the illustrious relationship between flora and femininity. Names such as ‘Budding Romance’, ‘Late Bloomer’, ‘Lady Garden’ and ‘Ms. Connie Lingus’. The collection was designed to enhance women’s sexuality while maintaining a lightness in jewelry. We kept the abstract and refined designs, allowing names to reiterate history and humor.Our ‘Maternity Leaf’ and ‘Pearl-lination Necklace’ – a piece that shows a woman’s ovaries in the form of floral shapes and pearls, were two other examples of how we used puns to highlight the background of the design and recognize the femininity of the jewellery.
See the collection on anissakermiche.com.