Jewelry design

Advanced Technology Opens New Doors to Jewelry Design


Presented by the International Gemological Institute

New lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) aren’t just changing our size and quality paradigms: the design landscape is widening, literally, as new rough crystals come in handy for shaping planes rarely or never seen before. , like the 13.28ct Hamsa-inspired pendant above. .

The widening landscape
Most natural diamonds are produced with cutting angles that maximize depth, as well as lateral spread, for better yield from the rough. There are exceptions; twinned and rough crystals broken in the recovery process are used to produce flat shapes, but most natural roughs are used to produce well-known shapes like round brilliant, which incorporate some depth to facilitate best yield.

Rough diamond developed by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) is different. CVD growth occurs vertically, layer after layer. The result is cube-shaped rough crystals that lend themselves as well or better to shallow shapes than traditional shapes with depth, opening up a new world of possibilities for diamond design.


As new diamond patterns are paired with advanced color saturation techniques, we see a range of creative products emerge, from traditional shapes like pears, marquises and ovals with a truly generous spread to stepped cuts with deep unique

More soon
At the same time, cutting technology continues to accelerate. In January, IGI analyzed world record rough crystals of 150 and 141 carats from Meylor Global (MG), the largest known to have been produced using the High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) process. These crystals broke the previous record of 115 carats, also reached by MG just 14 months earlier. Over the same period, IGI has graded several CVD polished diamonds that have set world records, surpassed just two months ago by a 16.41-carat specimen submitted to the GIA. As capabilities expand, product variety and availability will also increase.
knowledge is power

IGI hosts seminars, webinars, and e-learning courses for industry professionals, trade organizations, and retail jewelers across multiple industries, including major luxury brands.

“There’s a lot going on in our industry right now,” says North American President Avi Levy. “Those who are familiar with the latest developments will best serve their customers.”

If you would like to organize an educational seminar for your team, on any gemological topic, from basic 4C guidance to the latest developments in lab-grown diamonds, sustainable solutions and traceability, contact the team. IGI Education at

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